All rabbits need lots of love and attention and should be picked up and cuddled at least twice a day.  However, for the first day in their new home they should not be handled and just left in their hutch to quietly get used to their new surroundings as they will feel a little disorientated and nervous and could easily be stressed. Once they have settled in you can start handling them.

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Your bunny has been treated with Easicox. This is a treatment to prevent Intestinal Coccidiosis in pet rabbits. I also recommend 'Panacur Rabbit Oral Worming Paste' (see page 4).

For information on Health, Advice & Care please see my website: www.lynns-minilops.uk

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RABBIT FREEDOM  

Do not let your rabbit roam free in the garden/indoors. Too much freedom can make your rabbit more independent which could make your bunny less of a pet. You need to bond with your rabbit, it is so important because for the most part they are silent creatures. If they are out of their hutch they should either be in their run or being handled/cuddles and not running free.

My bunnies are out in their runs every day except in extreme weather. Rabbit runs come in all different sizes the larger the run the better. Rabbits learn by repetition, so the more consistent you are with him, the faster your bunny will pick up the behaviour you want. Develop a daily routine for your bunny, rabbits are actually quite intelligent.  

WINTER

In winter if you are not putting your hutch in a garage or shed, ensure you cover it at night with either a blanket and waterproof cover or a made to measure hutch cover, to keep it free from frost, cold winds and driving rain. Heat pad such as the Snuggle Safe are made out of hard plastic so cannot be chewed and all you need to do is put them in the microwave to warm them up.

SUMMER

Heat stroke in rabbits can be fatal, so it is essential to keep your bunny cool. Rabbits cannot sweat or pant to help bring down their body temperature, so are particularly susceptible to suffering in the hot weather. It is also vitally important to check your rabbits bottom daily for flystrike.

Here are some simple steps that you can take to stop your rabbits from over-heating in the summer…

 

• Ensure that your rabbits’ enclosure is in a cool/shady place out of direct sunlight.

• Freeze a partially filled 2-litre plastic water bottle, wrap it in an old towel and place it in your rabbits’ enclosure for them to lay next to.

• Provide both a bowl and bottle of water and add ice cubes to keep them cool.

• Place a large ceramic tile or tunnel in your rabbits’ enclosure.

 
VACCINATIONS

Your bunny will need to have vaccinations against RVHD1, Myxomatosis & RVHD2 which can be done by your vet after your rabbit has settled in after a week or so. DO NOT let your rabbit/s eat or run around on grass until they have had these vaccinations.

NEUTERING

It’s a good choice for you and your rabbit.  Neutering a male rabbit means removing its testes, while the equivalent procedure in a female is called spaying – the removal of the reproductive organs. Either way, it is a routine procedure that your vet can perform. Not only does it stop your rabbit breeding, it can also help it live a longer, healthier life with a reduced risk of cancer and urinary tract infections. I advise you to have your rabbit/s spayed or neutered; bucks from the age of 12/14 weeks and does from the age of 5/6 months, seek Veterinary advice.
 
ONCE BONDED

Don’t forget that once bonded, the rabbits must never be split. Your bunnies must always travel together, so even a quick trip to the vets where only one bunny is to be seen, means that you must take the other.   

If one of your bunnies needs an overnight stay at the vets, your bunny savvy vet should understand completely the need for the bonded bunnies to stay together and if he/she doesn’t, then you probably need to find another vet. 

 
A rabbit going to the vets on their own will come back smelling totally different and may behave differently and to introduce them back may be very problematic and is just not worth the risk.  In fact, by your bunnies travelling together, you will find that their stress levels are reduced; the bunnies feel secure from having their best friend beside them at all times.
 
HUTCH CLEANING

Rabbits always use one corner of their hutch or cage as a toilet and this makes it very easy to litter train them. I use two trays, one for their litter (hang a hay rack/ball above tray) as this will encourage them to do their business while eating hay. The other tray is filled with barley straw to keep them warm and cosy, I add more during the winter months.
 
I clean my litter tray every one/two days.  Give the tray a wash/wipe round with disinfectant before putting the new litter in and every week give the hutch/cage a proper scrub with disinfectant.  
 
There are no strict procedures for how to clean and maintain your hutch/cage, and the frequency of your chore is usually based on the size of the cage and how well your bunny is litter trained. Normally, a meticulous cleaning of rabbit's cage is done on a weekly basis. This is good enough to safeguard the health of your rabbit and prevent the spread of diseases.
 
RABBIT RUNS & PENS

Rabbits love to run about, it's a natural part of their behaviour. They jump and twist in the air when they are happy and feeling playful. Wild rabbits run about, on average 3 miles each day. Please make sure your rabbit/s have opportunities to exercise every day to stay fit and healthy. There are plenty of different size runs to be found on the internet, larger the better.
 
LIFESPAN

 

The average life span of a Mini Lop rabbit is from about 7 to 10 years, although with the proper care and attention they have been known to live in to their teenage years, but these are an exception.
 
FEEDING YOUR BUNNY
 
Hay is the most important part of a rabbit's diet and should make up to 80-90% of it and bunnies need to have access to UNLIMITED fresh hay all day. There are lots of different types about with varying colours of green so you'll be sure to find one your rabbits love.

 
Mix a few together to give your bunnies a range of textures to help wear their ever-growing teeth down. Make sure your hay is green and not yellow.

Unlimited good quality hay is the foundation of a healthy diet for a pet rabbit; it not only keeps them occupied for long periods of time, which reduces boredom and helps prevent behavioural problems, but it also keeps the teeth trim, the jaw strong and provides fibre to maintain healthy gut movement.  

You can also buy packets of mixed dried leaves, flowers and twigs from pet shops which you can mix a little in with their hay or pellets. In the wild rabbits spend most of their time sniffing around and foraging, so this is great to keep them busy and makes their hay more interesting too.

 
Pellets: 2 egg cupful’s per day / per bunny. I normally do one egg cupful in the morning and one egg cupful in the evening. When introducing any new fruit/vegetable/treat it must be done slowly and in small amounts. Their drinking bottle should be filled with fresh water daily.

 

Fruit & Vegetables: I recommend that fruits/vegetables should not be given until they are 5/6 months old. Young rabbit’s digestive systems can’t always cope with fruits/vegetables and they often end up with diarrhoea which can be fatal.

 

As mention above the main part of a rabbit’s diet should be unlimited amounts of fresh hay (preferably Timothy or Meadow Hay) and always have access to clean water.

When introducing any new food, always do so slowly over a few weeks to avoid digestive upsets. Rabbits, like humans are all different and as such some may be unable to tolerate certain foods.

Only give a small amount of fruits/vegetables and wait for 24 hours, if your rabbit produces soft poo, withdraw the food and try with something else after everything has settled back to normal.

(I do not recommend giving fruit/vegetables every day).

Allow 5 - 7 days before making any other additions. Always wash food first and don't feed plants from roadsides or that contain pesticides.
 
TRANCING / HYPNOTISING

Please DO NOT do this to your rabbit. He’s not relaxed. He’s in a state of

induced fear called TONIC IMMOBILITY. Also known as TRANCING, tonic

immobility is a defence mechanism that a rabbit will display to ‘play dead’

to his predator, in the hope of escape.

In a study conducted by McBride its was shown that TI causes elevated respiration, heart rate and plasma corticosterone. It is a fear motivated stress state. Put simply, it causes stress and is potentially harmful.  
 
SUPPLEMENTS
 
                     I use Carr's Entracare Aqua Natural bums and tums care. Your rabbit’s  

                     digestive system can become vulnerable in times of stress. Ingredients: Aqua, 

                     essential oil of origanum - mix with fresh drinking water.
 

                      Pro-C Probiotic is another product that can be added to their drinking water. It  

                      contains probiotics that help the gut cope and also extra vitamin C. Rabbits

                      metabolise more vitamin C when they are stressed and moulting is a stressful 

                      time. This helps the entire rabbit’s system cope a bit better during the moult. It    

                      can turn the water a shade of green so don’t worry if this happens. I use to use   

                      this product as you can buy in most pet shops.
 
WORMING
 
I also recommend worming your bunny twice a year with

‘Panacur Rabbit Oral Worming Paste’ this can be purchased either

on-line or at your vets. This can be given at 12 weeks old and then again

six months later. Easiest way to administer is to squeeze the dosage onto their pellets. 
                                 

SEXING RABBITS
 
Although every effort is made to ensure each kit/s is sexed correctly, I cannot be 100% sure as it is very difficult to sex at a young age unless you are purchasing a young adult/adult rabbit.

I will not take any responsibility for bunnies 48 hours after they leave my care.

I hope you have lots of fun with your new bunny/s and if you have any problems or questions please contact me, I am always happy to offer advice and support.

RABBIT MOULTING
 
Help your rabbits stay healthy during a moult…
Domestic rabbits can appear to moult all year round but generally it's every three months, with the heaviest moults in Spring & Autumn.

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Why?

Rabbits lose hair in order to control their body temperature, so in Spring they'll moult to cope with warmer temperatures and in the Autumn, they'll shed so they can grow a thick winter pelt for the cold spell. Sometimes, moving a rabbit into a warm house or cold run may trigger a moult.

Brush your rabbit every single day while they are moulting.
You need to try and stop your rabbits digesting as much fur as possible during their moult and brushing will help. If a rabbit digests too much fur it can contribute towards hairballs and

Gi-stasis. If you have bonded rabbits, keep a close eye on the rabbit that is cleaning their partner who is moulting.

Rabbits need to eat lots of hay during their moult to help keep their digestive system healthy. Increase their fresh hay amount and provide fun ways of providing their hay, to help encourage them to eat as much as possible. Keep your rabbit well hydrated.

                                     Natural enzymes found in papaya and pineapple are known to help the

                                     prevention of hairballs. Special tablets or dried fruits are available for   

                                     rabbits to help keep their digestive system healthy and can be fed all   

                                     year round. These enzymes may help soften food and hair in the

                                     stomach and so may help prevent blockages. Supplements such as

                                     Entracare Aqua Natural Bums & Tums and Pro-C Probiotic help when they

                                     are stressed and moulting is a stressful time.  

The scientific community is still undecided on whether feeding papaya or pineapple is really effective. But some rabbit owners claim that supplementing with digestive enzymes is the only way they can prevent hairballs in their rabbits, other owners say they see no difference. A natural treat which may be good too! As with all treats (especially fruits) Papaya & Pineapple Melange should be fed sparingly.

 
Tips to help with brushing…
Use a plant spray bottle on mist setting & spray your

bunny lightly and start brushing until their fur is dry,

or wet their brush/comb and brush your bunny until

their fur is dry.  If your bunny does not like being

brushed you can simply wipe a damp cloth over them.  

Jersey gardening gloves which have a dotted rubber grip on the palms are very effective with moulting rabbits. Dampen your rabbits’ fur and wipe your hands (with the gloves on) gently over your rabbit several times. This is more effective than using your bare hands. To remove the fur from the gloves, just wipe on a surface in a circular motion and the fur forms into one lump.  

PLEASE NOTE: When your rabbit is not moulting you still need to brush your rabbits at least once a week. Long haired breeds will need grooming a lot more than once a week.   

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INTRODUCING NEW FOOD

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I recommend that fruits/vegetables should not be given until they are 6 months old. Young rabbit’s digestive systems can’t always cope with fruits/vegetables and they often end up with diarrhoea which can be fatal.

​

The main part of a rabbit’s diet should be unlimited amounts of fresh hay (preferably Timothy or Meadow Hay) and always have access to clean water.

​

When introducing any new food, always do so slowly over a few weeks to avoid digestive upsets. Rabbits, like humans are all different and as such some may be unable to tolerate certain foods.

Only give a small amount of fruits/vegetables and wait for 24 hours, if your rabbit produces soft poo, withdraw the food and try with something else after everything has settled back to normal.

(I do not recommend giving fruit/vegetables every day).

​

Allow 5 - 7 days before making any other additions. Always wash food first and don't feed plants from roadsides or that contain pesticides.

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GRASS CUTTINGS FROM LAWN MOWER

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Are grass cuttings from lawn mower safe ?

You should never feed your bunny grass cuttings from lawn mowers.

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The heat of the blades and the cutting process causes changes to the grass making it ferment quicker leaving your bunny vulnerable to a poorly tummy.

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It is much better to pick grass or cut it with scissors and make sure you feed it straight away removing any that your bunny doesn't eat.

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How to feed grass if you don't have a lawn or have a house rabbit.

There are lots of ways to feed grass to your rabbits whether they are house rabbits or if you don't have a lawn.

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See below; (ReadiGrass use only once a week as rich and high in calcium which can cause upset tummies/runny poos.)

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RABBIT CARRIER

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I recommend the following rabbit carrier due to the top-opening ...

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Living World Paws2Go Small Pet Carrier

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The Paws2Go Small Pet Carrier is perfect for taking your rabbit/s to the vets etc, this stylish carrier has multiple ventilation slits to ensure optimal air circulation, a small feed access window and an ergonomic lock that secures your pet inside.

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